R e v e r a n c e
This posting is about poems, not mine nor poems rooted in language, but rather in directly pure and visceral experience within our physical reality. Might also seem to be “about” waves or the art of big wave surfing, but neither that in nor of itself, rather within the relationship, human with elemental energy, that takes this stage to express itself.
So what is such a posting doing on a poetry blog? Fair question, but not so hard to understand from several points of my personal compass here. From an intellectual stance, many aspects of life can be viewed as poetic, and all the more when performed to an exceptional degree of devotion and ability. But that’s not my motivation for sharing this post.
Of recent history my work has become distressingly banal and mundane at best, frustrating enough to make an experience of peace elusive in a general sense of self. Add a few other on-going changes and the gradient gets steeper still. Not much “poeming” is one result, making doubts more worrisome than wondrous.
Then by good fortune I happened upon a book, “The Wave” by Susan Casey, in part her shared experience of the lives of several big wave surfers, Laird Hamilton in most particular. I was certainly surprised myself as my interest and appreciation for these big wave surfers took on a dynamic of its own, renewing a sense of passion that had seemed near beaten and vacant of late. I was ready for this!
Big wave surfing, as background reference, means riding waves in the 30 to 40 foot range to begin and advancing onto 60 or 70 feet, with rare waves of towering 80 feet or more. This is not an environment suited to any but the most skilled and respectful of surfers. “Watermen” (or women) they like to call themselves. This is not a situation of “man vs nature”, as the elemental energy of these waves can easily crush and ruin the life of any person who does not understand the nature and personality of this monumental water in motion.
Laird Hamilton, whose real eloquence becomes most visible on the waves, has said that big wave surfing requires sincere devotion, that mostly taking the form of “waiting”, being in a supreme state of readiness physically and mentally, and then awaiting the opportunity to apply that on the waves when conditions are just right to generate the truly largest waves.
Susan Casey does a superb job of describing these people and the waves they ride. However here I’d simply like to visually present some of the most illuminating videos, to allow you to “see” for yourselves.
There be (video) poems here:
Laird Hamilton riding some monumental waves.
Laird riding an amazing wave at Teahupoo in Tahiti.
Oxbow team riders Laird Hamilton, Kai Lenny and Jason Polakow using jet-ski tow assisted surfing at “Jaws in Hawaii“. (slow-motion video) Poetry-in-motion!
Tow surfing is a modern technique required to ride the very largest of waves which move too fast for conventional surfing to “catch” a wave. The jet-ski allows proper insertion onto a wave, then also serves to recover or rescue a surfer after their wave ride in the turbulent waters. This video clip beautifully lets you see the “process in whole” wave after wave continuously!
Watch the Charlie Rose interview with Laird Hamilton and Susan Casey.
neil reid Commentary and Review january 2012
Aloha Neil, I get that the state of being ready to surf parallels the state of being ready to write, for the poet. It’s being mentally and physically prepared to do the thing that makes you feel most in your element. We psych ourselves, to keep on wanting to crest in some way. That desire is both a joy and a bane.
What is the alternative? It is to *not do it*.
Then the next question is, What is the thing that keeps you alive?
I should say, *most* keeps you alive, so much as to help contribute to your own sense of general well-being.
And I should add, when this thing disappears, your sense of self may recede a little, but it is still there, in you, waiting for the moment of the wave.
And hey, I like mundane.